Kebabs, Biryani and Much More: An Indian Metropolis Secures a Place on Unesco Culinary List.
Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.